Archive for the 'Laponia' Category

Gone Sea Anglin´…

Published on June 21, 2009 in Laponia and Uncategorized. 0 Comments

…and do something other than having my head in dusty papers about Shetland’s mining history. The weather was begging me to get out and get some…oxygen. And, it was Midsummer and Father’s Day. Good idea!

Taking out my small collapsible spinning rod, a box of lures commonly used in northern Swedish inland waters and my expectations I stuffed these in my small day-pack (uh…not the expectations) and headed out to an adventure with Jeppe.

As I drove, my only thought was, “but how in the h… does one fish in the briny waters around Shetland…and from shore?” The challenge was well worth the taking.

fshingboat01

    Photo: Fishing in the sea requires a whole different kind of equipment

    I found a nice little rock sticking out along the shores of the “Cliffs of Cunningsburgh”, a place I’ve been before looking for ancient holes in the ground. I took off my pack, took out my collapsible spinning rod, still with last years nylon line for Swedish fishing, and chose a 15 g “Toby” spinner. I figured the beasts in the water would find a shiny copper-colored Toby a great morsel to contend with. Tied a knot strong enough to take on familiar northern pike and threw it anxiously out into the Atlantic.

    After 20 minutes of this, I figured the fish were bored, so I smacked on a 20 g Toby. I worked with this for another 20 mintues, changed to a 28 g Toby (heck, gotta wake those fish up somehow) and another 20 minutes. The next two hours, I was throwing everything bigger than my trout flies out into the depths in front of me…and…nothing happened.

    Everything but fish was interested in what I was doing. I had Arctic Terns hover over the lures, as they wiggled through the water. A diving Puffin got fairly close once, as well as a Razorbill and a couple of Common Gulls. Then, just as I had thrown out a “day-glow” spinner, used for graylings, a gray seal popped its head up outa the water a little out from where the spinner landed.

    I thought, crap! I don’t wanna hook a seal or a Puffin! Besides, what would I do if I caught a fish that was so strange and ugly, I wouldn’t even know if it was edible? Or, maybe a Killer Whale was nearby doing his own kind of “fishing”? Or….

    So, I quit! What did I learn? Fishing in the sea is entirely different to fishing in freshwater . The two jist don’t mix! The only thing I got today was fresh-air, some sun and lots of relaxation, which is mostly why people go “sea-angling” anyways. Right?

    PS- Shetland is supposed to have great freshwater fishing; brown trout and some Arctic char. See following: Shetland Trout Fishing

If History repeats itself…

Published on January 27, 2008 in Jokkmokk's Mines and Laponia. 0 Comments

…then the story of the older silver mine of Silpatjåkkå, nestled in a seldom visited area of Padjelanta National Park, could very well have close similarities to today’s Jokkmokk. It’s a story of false hopes, egos and deceit and a dependency to subventions to keep it alive, though the inevitable downfall and abandonment fastly approached. Silpatjåkkå’s story is a 40 year old rise and fall with complicated details and many actors involved, but let’s briefly look at what it was all about…

Firstly, in the 17th century, Sweden had dreams of becoming a great power and was trying to establish a personal Scandinavian empire by attaining control over Finland, Russia, parts of Norway and other Baltic regions through its Great 30-year War. Secondly, we have to keep in mind that Europe’s economic theory during the 17th century was that of mercantilism. With the costs of warfare abroad and the need to be a key economic figure, the discovery of new silver mines, which increased economic values, within Sweden’s territory was a solution to both of these needs.

So, it wasn’t so surprising that, after a small invasion on the Nasa Silver Mine and its destruction by invading Norwegian troops in 1658, that King Karl IX demanded that new silver deposits would be searched for. One Saami scout, keenly knowledgeable of the mountains, the terrain and how to search for precious metals spoke about a new stretch of silver in Jokkmokk’s mountains. The man was Jon Persson, a Tuorpan Saami, and the place was “Kietiewarri”, or what was later to be named “Silbbatjåhkkå” meaning “The Silver Hill” in Saamish.

resize-of-kamajokkview01.jpgPhoto: The Kamajokk Stream gave energy to the smelting works at Kvikkjokk.

A state owned, or royal, company was formed called Luleå Silverworks and was responsible for and in control of Silpatjåkkå and its exploitation. Needing a mining foreman, the earlier mining foreman from Nasa Silver Mine, Isak Tiock, was chosen and sent to the Jokkmokk mountains to start working the prospect. Buildings, smelting ovens and forges had to be built and all this saw the birth of the little village of Kvikkjokk. Here was an ample supply of trees for charcoal and rushing waters for power to drive a water wheel.

The journey to Kvikkjokk was by foot and a series of rowboats. To get to the silver mine, hiking for the workers, horseback for higher ranking people and reindeer with sledges were the more common means of transportation.

The workers were conscripted in the same manner as soldiers at the time. They came from the eastern seaboard of northern Sweden and sent inland to work as miners. Many who were conscripted and were wealthy, paid themselves free of duty by sending someone less advantageous in their place. At the silver mine itself, a dwelling was erected for the miners, who spent most of the winter working in the open mine shafts or pumping out water in the summer months.

The Saami were also conscripted into serving the mine. They were paid for their transportation services, using reindeer and sledges to haul needed supplies to the mine and silver ore on the return trip back to Kvikkjokk. Some wealthier Saami, too, could pay themselves free from duty, sending a replacement for themselves, or many just escaped duty by going to nearby Norway.

resize-of-163-6352_img.JPGPhoto: A cast iron stove from the 1770’s at Silpatjåkkå

Whatever the situation, both workers and Saami had difficult working conditions. Both were to receive wages in the form of felt, sugar, tobacco etc. but the first few years showed that no one was getting paid. Isak Tiock, the mining foreman and known for his harsh treatment of the Saami at the Nasa Silver Mine, where he dragged Saami under the winter ice until they were willing to work or,more often, died of pneumonia, had refused to pay the miners and Saami of Luleå Silverworks and Silpatjåkkå. He cheated them out of their wages and kept this for himself. It wasn’t until after a royal commission visited Kvikkjokk and inspected the conditions there that he was fired from his job as mining foreman, charged and taken to court for his actions and eventually was jailed. Afterwards, both miners and Saami were paid in full for their work.

Through the years, many royal commissions were sent to Kvikkjokk to inspect the mines and the the king’s investments. Almost with each commission, requests for more money were given and more capital was poured into Silpatjåkkå silver mine. In 1672, another mine was opened in Alkavare and increased the investments. At its best, the Sipatjåkkå Silver Mine produced only some 550 kg of silver and 1500 kg of lead over a 40 year period, which ended in 1702. A small fortune for the times had been invested in the Silpatjåkkå Silver Mine but, in comparison, very little had been gained and the whole venture was an economic tragedy.

After 1702, several other private entrepreneurs gained rights to mine silver in Silpatjåkkå. Abraham Steinholtz apparently did some work in 1745 and Prof. Jonas Meldercreutz seemingly worked the mines in 1769. Small scale mining interests were shown in the late 19th century, though not necessarily for silver but for other minerals. Some companies are documented and others were unknown “wild cards”. Many came to Silpatjåkkå and went away with shattered dreams of easy riches.

resize-of-silpavy01.jpgPhoto: Hedwigs Mine from late 17th century as it looks today

In the early times of Silpatjåkkå, whoever was involved with wanting to resume mining at the place were granted a general tax relief, but no one could ever make the silver mines profitable nor economically in balance. Was a tax relief a motivation for interest in Silpatjåkkå more so than actually working the mine? As from the beginning, Silpatjåkkå would always be dependent upon state aid or other subventions for its survival. The village of Kvikkjokk had as many as some eighty people living there in the late 17th century. Now, there is only a handful of permanent residents and the village struggles without real signs of progressive development.

It should be added that Silpatjåkkå has been an object of historical interest and research since 1993. The research project The Older Mines of Jokkmokk, founded by Kenneth Awebro and Tim Senften, has successfully carried out extensive archival and field research of Silpatjåkkå and has found new information about the silver mine and its historical significance. The larger mine holes are still there, but new evidence has been discovered showing that a greater exploitation, than what was earlier thought of, has occurred. The original building sites from 1660 can easily be found together with the mine holes at 1250 meters above sea level.

Hiking Tips: A long days hike from Staloluokta. No direct path; use map and compass and follow the eastern side of Viejevagge Valley. The mine area is given on the BD10 map. Often foggy and poor weather at that height above sea level. Difficult to find a level spot for a tent. Please- this is an important heritage place so don’t disturb anything and pick-up/take-out all scrap!

Next: Alkavare Silver Mine- a complement to Silpatjåkkå

After the bear-killing-moose…

Published on January 17, 2008 in Laponia. 0 Comments

…incident, I continued hiking along the northern side of Miellätno River, passing the reindeer worker’s cabin, where the border of Sarek National Park begins, and making camp for a third night a few kilometres south of this landmark. The weather had now changed and rain showers were going to be with me that night as I laid in my tent with thoughts of the next coming day when I’d pass the Alkavare Chapel.

The chapel itself has its own story and is a well-known landmark of Sarek. The chapel is a ways up from Miellätno, sitting on a small shelf of a hill, and just a few hundred meters south from the Kainaij Stream, or according to the new Saamish spelling on the newer maps, Gáinájjågågsj. (With all respects for another culture’s language, I’m more used to the old maps than the new ones)

I poked around along Miellätno, looking for signs of Saami having stayed in or used the area on their migrations, and diagonally worked my way upwards along the slope of Lánjekbuollda and up until I came to the same level as the chapel. Now, as I approached Kainaij I was thinking of the best place to cross it. The stream was thick and there was plenty of water as it went through a deep ravine.

resize-of-161-6116_img.JPGPhoto: Remnants of silver mining in 1672 at Alkavare. Alkavare Chapel is in upper right-hand corner.

It was here I happened to look up and looked around me. With a little experience, one learns to tell when the ground area is natural or has been disturbed in some way. Small telltale signs of things that aren’t a natural phenomenon are often obvious to sharpened eyes.

For me, standing on the northern side of the stream and having the Alkavare Chapel a few hundred meters on the other side, I immediately noticed that someone long ago had apparently been digging holes in the ground. The holes were very evident and the age was determined by the lichen growth and wear of the rock. And, I stood there thoroughly amazed at what I was seeing and not knowing anything about these holes. Who dug holes in such an isolated place? Why did they do this? Was it the Saami and these were hunting pitfall holes? How did these happen? When did this happen? What happened afterwards?

The questions just flew in my head. With backpack off, I walked around and found more holes and more disturbed rocks and a huge ditch that was dug out of the side of the ravine and another hole and…and… Signs of something having happened were all over the ground and I was completely absorbed with these holes in the ground.

Although it was a little tricky, I managed to cross Kainaij Stream and climb up the steep bank only to find more holes and disturbed rock and even a foundation from a stone building. After looking at the map, I now saw that this area was designated as a mining area, but when and how this happened, I wanted to know the whole story.

resize-of-161-6127_img.JPGPhoto: Foundation of a building from 1672

Because of this first experience of a mining area in the mountains, I couldn’t let it rest. Once back in Jokkmokk, I went to the library and searched for as much information as possible about that mining area in Sarek. Finally, several years later, I met Kenneth Awerbro, who had written a detailed history book about the first silver mines in the mountains. We started our friendship with a common interest…old mines…and the last 15 years have allowed me to research these mines giving me more and more answers to the questions I first had at Alkavare in 1988. My interest in older mines has only increased since then.

So, after finally getting around to the subject, I plan on writing about these mines and a brief history of those which were important and influential for the early development of Jokkmokk. The very first mine in Jokkmokk is from 1638 and is Norrbotten’s oldest known iron ore mine. An interesting story concerning the small hill south of the town of Jokkmokk called…Ruotevare or “Iron Hill” in Saamish.

Unexpected things can happen in Laponia…

Published on January 15, 2008 in Laponia and Personal. 1 Comment

…almost at anytime. A solo hike in 1988 had unexpectedly given me two things; a fantastic memory and the development of something I never would’ve believed would have such an impact on me for future years. Allow me to explain the first.

Working together with two other people on a project to rediscover possible campsites of an older Saami migration route, just one of many that often snake themselves through the mountainous passageways and valleys of Sarek and Padjelanta, I was asked to photographically document possible campsites or reindeer milking pastures along the way. I had never hiked alone nor been in such an isolated situation before and I felt anxiety for my safety and testing my “solo” mountain skills, as I prepared for my departure.

After arriving in Staloluokta with one of the last Cessna airplanes used in the hills before helicopters became common, I headed out towards Arasluokta and made camp for the night. Next morning, I veered eastwards, after crossing the bridge, heading in the direction of Alkavare hiking along the north bank of the Meillätno River.

resize-of-alkajaurview01.jpgPhoto: Alkajaur Lake in Sarek National Park and start of the Meillätno River

I had trouble sleeping that second night. The August weather was hot and hiking in hot weather requires drinking a lot of water. I woke up in my tent, sometime in the middle of the night, and heard an uncommon slushy noise coming from the river nearby. I listened. It wasn’t a reindeer passing because that sounds different. So, I got out of my sleeping bag and opened the front of the tent to take a look.

The sun is under the horizon at this time of the year, but it still gives plenty of light in the evenings. I looked downstream for the sound and saw a moose, a cow, moseying along near the riverbank and pulling up grass and chewing it as she peacefully worked her way upstream. She didn’t seem to have a care in the world that night and, for me, I drank some water while I watched her pass by and eventually closed my tent and went back to sleep.

The next day was a little cooler and with a north-westerly breeze, making hiking much easier. I started out and, when it felt necessary, took off my pack, sat on the ground up against a rock and made a morning stop along the river bank. I like to look around a lot when hiking. I get acquainted with my surroundings this way instead of rushing and not seeing things.

At this particular moment, sitting against the rock and both legs stretched out in a crossed manner, a Bluethroat landed on my right boot. Just like that and without any indication given, I had a beautiful mountain bird standing four feet from my nose on the tip of my boot, wagging its tail and looking at me as if to say “good morning”. It was there for what seemed to be a long time and I really enjoyed his visit and courage. But, things must end and he flew off on his own adventure.

For me, I continued to sit resting and studying the hill across from me, on the opposite side of the river from me.

Doing this, I noticed some dark thing running fast diagonally downhill. “Well, wha…”, I thought, and took my binoculars hanging on my neck to get a better look. Running down the hill was the moose cow I had seen last night and she was going very fast. Catching up to her and hot on her hooves was….a bear!

I followed the incident with my binoculars. The bear was getting closer and closer as they both came downhill and closer to the river bank and brush across from me. As the moose entered into the brush, the bear was right behind her. The brush slowed the moose down giving the bear the advantage of the situation. And, more suddenly than one would expect, I watched the bear jump up from behind onto the moose and, holding hard onto her back loins with his paws and claws, tackled and dragged the moose down into the bushes. Both disappeared.

I saw a lot of rustling in the bushes, but everything went very quicklt and soon these stopped moving. For a long time I sat there and waited, watching for any movement, but there was none. As I watched, I realized how swiftly the chase, and then the kill, happened. I was awed with how fast the bear could run and the strength and power he had when pulling the moose down to kill it. And, to have sat there alone and be a witness to the whole event was something I felt almost blessed with.

I don’t have any pictures of this. I didn’t have the time to open my pack and get my camera. It was over with so quickly. In afterthought, it’s sometimes wiser to just observe than to take pictures. Also, I was glad I had the Meillätno River between me and the bear.

And, ever since that day, when I think of watching the bear kill a moose in the mountains, I often wondered if not the Bluethroat on my boot was trying to talk to me and prepare me for what I alone would see. Unforgettable!

PS- Coming up/ The start of older mine research

Swedish Touring Skis vs. Snowshoes…

Published on January 1, 2008 in Laponia. 0 Comments

…is a subject that too few people in Lapland take even a breath of a moment to think about. Ever since the 16th century, when Gustav Wasa did his famous ski trip to become the first king of Sweden, skiing has been a so dominating means of travel in the country that consideration for an alternative has been out of the question. Skiing has always been the root to effective and reliant winter travel in Lapland. So much so as the development special ski museums dedicated in preserving hundreds of years of Swedish ski culture nostalgia and development. But, what about snowshoes in Sweden?

resize-of-dsc_0102.JPGPhoto: The toes of a touring ski are easy to entangle in low-lying forest brush or thick birch tree growths

Basically, there is no snowshoe tradition in Sweden. Without greater research, snowshoes came about with the horse. With thick and heavy snow conditions in wintertime, people found it necessary to provide their horses with better footing. Otherwise, horses would sink to their stomachs as they pulled sleighs through forests. These first snowshoes were wooden rectangular creations with leather bindings that criss-crossed around the horse’s hooves and were just minimally larger than hooves.

Later, as the forest industries advanced, workers cutting trees during wintry months would otherwise wade in deep snow without some type of snowshoe. They used small rectangular shoes, bent upwards at both ends and strapped on with a toe and heel binding. These had been developed years ago by the military and basically have held the same design up to and into the 1970’s. They largely looked like “modern” horse snowshoes and were not popular because they weren’t very effective. Better with skis!

Comparatively, skis are great in the open and treeless terrain, such as the higher mountain areas, and with these conditions prove to be a quicker transportation method. Depending upon different snow conditions, skis of different width and length are appreciated. For example, the longer or wider a ski is, the less you sink in loose snow. And different bindings provide different varieties for individual preferences.

But, skis have their problems. One is just the fact that a few different lengths and widths are necessary for changes in snow condition or terrain. With too short or thin skis one can sink deep in snow just as easily as without. Skis should be waxed for the conditions of the day. Wax wrongly and you will easily slide backwards when attempting an uphill journey or need to put on/take off, what I call, “sealskins”. (sorry, I forgot the correct word for these things that attach to the toe of the ski and underneath to provide a grip)

Just using skis in thick lowland forests give problems. The upturned toes of a ski are very easy to get tangled into brush and thick wooded areas and one has to continuously plan very short routes for the best results and not get entangled or, dread, break-off a ski toe while balancing a slight downhill route in thick spruce forest.

So, let’s be honest! A touring ski in lowland forest terrain with changing snow conditions, needing correct and daily waxing, having to choose an appropriate route with not too much uphill nor downhill and a straight line to manoeuvre along… doesn’t allow for an enjoyable outing and are like having two sticks stuck to your feet. They often are just a “necessary” big pain-in-the-butt!

resize-of-dsc_0110.JPGPhoto: Snowshoes or Swedish touring skis? The skis have a length of 8 ft and are commonly found in Sweden

Ah! Then let’s consider an alternative…the modern snowshoe!

Now, why do I use “modern” snowshoe? After having lived in Maine, I had the opportunity to learn about snowshoes from that snowshoe culture having plenty of snow. For snowshoe romantics, the wooden framed and leather laced traditional type of snowshoe fits the romantic’s dream image. But, most of these traditional shoes are poorly stringed, or laced, and nowadays don’t hold very long. Maine outdoors people are changing to modern snowshoes due to the lack of competent makers. You have to find a snowshoe maker that knows how to lace them correctly with the right material. Besides, the good quality snowshoes cost an arm and a leg! Too little demand, too high of price!

Then, there is an array of modern snowshoes with varied degrees of practical use and quality. In Sweden, a type of French-made snowshoe is being marketed by most companies. Snowshoes are marketed using the Alps or Mount Everest image trying to attract, what I would call, buyers with little-experience-in-the-outdoors or “wannabes”…possibly even the romantics, who just like the look of a pair of snowshoes hanging on their house porch.

My purpose here is not to start comparing different brands and makers but rather to promote an alternative to skis; if even with a combination of both for appropriate conditions and purposes

The snowshoe I’ve been experimenting with is an aluminium and synthetic shoe made by Tubbs. My boots are a traditional L.L. Bean brand. The snowshoes were second-hand through an Internet site. They are an earlier model Eclipse and not made for my body weight nor the conditions I had wanted snowshoes for very loose and new snow deeper than 90 cm and with a 17 kg. backpack.

And here’s something important! Firstly, when considering a snowshoe, consider your body weight, pack load and the normal snow conditions you’ll most likely to use them in. Secondly, find snowshoes that can be temporarily repaired to keep functioning (wire, string, rope, old jeans) should these break in extreme isolated terrain. Then, whatever manufacturer you choose isn’t that pertinent! Mainly ordinary consumer expectations such as material reliability, cost and quality or back-up when something goes wrong are satisfactory expectation demands on manufacturers. Don’t go for the first plastic-made constructed snowshoe that the local sport store has on its shelf! Do a little research!

resize-of-dsc_0109.JPGPhoto: Be smart with choosing snowshoes and choose for your body weight and usage

I’ve used my Tubbs snowshoes the past few months with different snow conditions and must say that snowshoes impress me as an alternative. Yes, I sank in loose snow in the beginning, but I knew I had under dimensioned equipment. So, that’s O.K. And, as the snow conditions changed and the layer compressed, I found snowshoes working better in the forests around Jokkmokk.

But, what really impressed me with snowshoes was in the thick spruce lowlands near the Västerbotten mountains! Snowshoes aren’t very long and are much lighter than skis. Having compressed snow with a slight crust, I found it to be a piece of cake walking in this terrain. I didn’t break through the snow. I had no problems with uphill climbs. I purposefully walked across deep ditches and really thick birch areas, places where snowmobiles would think twice about, and all without the slightest problem. I never got stuck in thick brush. I did not feel intimidated with walking “bowlegged” but walked almost normally and only tripped over my own feet…once! I do think the bindings must be better, but I have an earlier model so…!

With this experience, I will continue to test my snowshoes and continually compare these with my Swedish touring skis. But, for now, I’m impressed with their compatibility to the lowland forests of Lapland and being outdoors during winter. They are well worth trying and hopefully can change Lapland traditions. Snowshoeing in Lapland can truly be… a walk in the park!

Pharmaceutical Needs in Laponia…

Published on November 30, 2007 in Laponia. 0 Comments

…and the small distant villages of this area have a small but significant roll in many people’s lives through the years. And although this significance has dwindled through modernization and change of needs, the proposed changes concerning the restructuring and selling of the state owned Apoteket, or pharmaceutical organization, should be taken with concern.

Because of the distances from Jokkmokk and the need for medical supplies in the mountains, there was an organized system that provided the most necessary supplies to people. Of course, central to this service working depended upon the pharmacist in Jokkmokk. It was the pharmacist’s local knowledge of people’s needs together with a high professional responsibility and attitude that allowed this service to function well.

resize-of-padjelanta1972-copy.jpg>Photo:Medical supplies were available in the mountains for Laponia backpackers in 1972

I was fortunate to have had parent-in-laws that operated the pharmacy in Jokkmokk, Gun & Nils Hövenmark, and had the opportunity to be exposed to discussions concerning Apoteket. And, coming from an American “drugstore” culture, I acquired a better respect for medicines and pharmaceuticals than had I not have had this alternative.

Each spring, Gun would go through a list of needed supplies to the mountains and prepare transport boxes that would be shipped to strategic places in Laponia. The supplies were mostly basic first-aid things, but she also prepared simple salves and medicines for blisters, cramps, heat exposure and especially for diarrhea, which came about from people drinking water that may have had a dead reindeer in it upstream. She would take time to visit the distant villages up to and including Kvikkjokk and conduct an inventory of available supplies each year in order to provide an extended service. Small pharmacy outposts.

She personally knew everybody who lived in the Saami villages and understood their medical conditions and needs. Should anyone in the mountains run out of a medicine they needed, Gun could prepare an emergency prescription and have this sent through a series of buses, boats and airplanes to arrive at the right village for this person. A phenomenal feat when you consider the distances, weather, communication processes and complications.
resize-of-padjelanta1972_01-copy.jpgPhoto: 1972-Returning from a calf-marking with a young Lennart Åstot steering the boat.

As a cabin warden in Staloluokta, in the beginning of the 1990’s, we had a large box of medical items that were available for needy hikers. This was prepared by the pharmacy in Jokkmokk and was always appreciated by both wardens, local Saami villagers and tourists through the summer months.

How it is now? I’m not quite sure!

I do know that January 18, of next year, a commission will propose the selling and commercializing of the Swedish Apoteket and, later, give suggestions of selling medicines through private companies like supermarkets, grocery stores and gas stations. An American “drugstore” situation.

It’s very unfortunate that political leaders of Sweden are of so low caliber and competency that, instead of solving problems within an appreciated service like Apoteket and initiating correct changes to increase quality, they just sell-it-off, giving the problem back to taxpayers. Should this procedure turn out like the Swedish postal service, with postal services through the local grocery store etc., Swedish people will again be faced with huge problems and discontent at losing a professional service. Of course, grocery stores will be happy with more potential profits.

I, for one, am not looking forward in going to our local grocery store and dealing with a pimply-faced, overweight girl with pins in her face, at a crowded cash register and ask for information about a prescription for blood pressure knowing that this girl has totally no comprehension of anything other than taking money and giving a receipt.

Medicines are important, even in the mountains. For Gun & Nils, they’re probably rolling in their grave. The misuse or misinformation of medicines and pharmaceuticals can be highly damaging. Please, consider boycotting these services at stores or gas stations and make a difference.

Getting Started in the Outdoors…

Published on October 11, 2007 in Laponia. 1 Comment

…is a challenging topic to give a simple answer to. There are many websites for beginners with an array of different methods and tips of getting started and the answer is very individual depending upon individual goals, conditions and capabilities. But, having learned outdoor skills, everyone will have developed basic skills and routines that can be employed in many varied circumstances.


Photo-Learning to safely cross a stream in Laponia

First off, I’m not referring to “survival techniques”. I feel that this is a fantasy world for those who need their adrenaline kicks or to prove that they know something more than others. It is impossible to predict what “survival techniques or skills” are needed for what circumstances. “Survival” largely deals with risk management, inventiveness and common sense. Heck of a thing to learn “survival techniques” in a British Columbia forest and find yourself stranded on a Pacific ocean island! What does one do then?

Here, I want to add that most outdoor and primitive living skills you learn will be a tremendous help later in your life. Examples of these are starting a fire in wet weather, correct clothing for windy weather or tying appropriate knots. Be it a trip to Africa or a power-outage at home, having learned to cope without modern luxuries will have prepared you for most anything that may arise. Guaranteed!

The smartest way of thinking, when wanting to start enjoying the outdoors, is to remember that you are a beginner. Don’t be intimidated by others with a little more experience. You learn things at your own speed, in your own manner at your own level. Like learning to walk. At a beginner’s stage, any small mistakes or poor judgments made will prepare you for bigger challenges later.

It is essential to ask yourself, What have I learned by my mistakes and How can I use what I’ve learned for the future? The more oftener you’re outdoors, the more experiences you have to fall back on.


Photo-Start teaching your child early about the outdoors

Parents are central in teaching their kids about the outdoors. Parents, who are couch potatoes, will likely have couch potato children. If parents are somewhat outdoorsy, the children will likely learn to be outdoorsy…or at the least have a base to build on.

Easiest way to start gaining experience is to go “camping” in your backyard. Just decide a peaceful clear evening, prepare how you will do it and then do it. Get used to solving simple problems like food, shelter or equipment…pretend you’re in the wilderness but with the safety of home should anything be needed or go wrong. Enjoy the independence, gaze at stars and think about life, listen to the sounds of the night etc. Do this with a friend and share the moment. Make it fun to learn about the outdoors. It’s lifelong learning!

Once, when I wanted to test sleeping overnight in sub-zero temperatures, I borrowed a better tent and a better sleeping bag from someone and “went camping” in my backyard at –32 C. I practiced a real situation but with my house nearby if something didn’t work out. Later, I knew what I needed and how to do it for other adventures in the mountains. (It’s interesting to wake-up in a tent that has frost on the inside of the tent. Kind of snowy inside when getting dressed.)


Photo-Winter camping in the Tarra Valley, Laponia.

If you live in a city apartment, join an outdoor group that may leave the metropolitan area for a day/weekend trip or take a bus yourself to the nearest state park or recreational area. Just for a day works well. Learn to make your own fire, in an appropriate way and approved place, and cook a lunch on this. Make a game out of it. “How can I be independent from modern conveniences?” Learn to solve the problems. Be inventive in this adventure of outdoor learning.

Another good advice is to use the library! If not Internet, the library is a world of its own with information and books on camping, outdoors, hiking, birds, first-aid etc. Use this! Read!

Again, hooking-up with local outdoor groups is a good idea. Scouts are great, but other groups are “outdoor active”. These could be local birdwatchers or wilderness groups. Some organizations have special hiking and camping groups or even organize nature walks to learn about plants, trees, geology, stars etc.

Lastly, whatever your wishes and goals may be, just don’t sit there…get out and do something. The more you do, the more you will grow and the more you will get close to yourself and nature for the rest of your life. And, stay safe out there!

Could’ve Been a Laponia Tragedy…

Published on September 24, 2007 in Laponia. 4 Comments

…was my first thought after reading today’s article in Norrbottens Kuriren about two backpackers who were stranded along the shores of Akkajaur. It’s difficult to judge the situation from just reading the newspaper or personally listening to each person’s viewpoint. The scene involved two hikers, perhaps not the most experienced, a man who dropped them off at a “gold medal of a stupid place” and mountain weather in September. The situation points out some important things to think about.

Recently, I wrote that you don’t play games with nature and mountain weather in Laponia in September. At the lower regions, and near to mammoth warmer waters like Akkajaur, the area will probably be wet, cold, often foggy and totally unwelcoming. As they would have hiked to higher levels, and especially in Norway, they would have reached an altitude difference of approx. 150 meters. Enough to have been in snow country. Helicopters from mountain rescue, though highly competent, will not fly in bad or unstable conditions.

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With a few days of rainfall, Bádur Stream, Tarradalen, would be treacherous to cross.

Orienteering and sound map reading is vital! Consider following a poorly marked trail in fog when visibility is about 2-20 meters. Understanding of how to read and interpret maps is essential for pre-journey planning or, if unknowingly faced with a boat driver who doesn’t know the area himself, get your bearings while on the spot and understand what the terrain/situation up ahead will offer.

Just because there’s a red line showing a trail on your map doesn’t mean this will be an easy thing to follow. Same with bridges or shelters marked on the map. Bridges can have been moved for the winter (Sarek for example) or washed away, shelters can be locked reindeer breeder’s huts and windbreaks may be in terrible condition. For the mountain unit of the National Environmental Board, the maintenance demands on trails, shelters, signs and information is seemingly harsh and they have less resources to use for maintaining to expected standards. In fact, some paths are consciously, but “unofficially”, being dismantled to discourage use. Let’s look at an example of a marked trail in the Tarra Valley on the way towards Vaimok cabin…

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Hmmm…According to the map, this is supposed to be the trail.

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Ah…This must be the marked…bridge?

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Nope-Here it is! I found it! Uh, where is it?

Is a guide really necessary?

I’ve been asking myself this question many times. During the past few years, the trend has been in promotion of “Laponia guides” and “guided Laponia tours”. I have difficulties in visualizing a group of people following someone, hopefully local, and paying a sizable sum to follow behind that person. But, then, those trying to make an income from being a guide would argue with me.

I feel that guides may not be necessary if tourists and backpackers have learned about necessary tools they should have for an enjoyable trip and lifelong useof these tools. Through small hands-on courses, a novice backpacker can learn how to plan his/her/their backpacking trip, map reading and orientation, mountain safety and weather, equipment and techniques etc. and have ownership over this knowledge for the rest of their lives…using these tools when needed.

Perhaps, with this incident, which could’ve been a tragedy, the term know-before-you-go is wise and that skills can be improved on with professionally conducted outdoor education? So, Stay safe out there!

Two Young People from Nottingham…

Published on September 22, 2007 in Laponia. 2 Comments

…happened to be standing behind me in the line at the grocery store today. Having heard their British English, I turned around and had a small chat. It was the first time to Jokkmokk for them and they had been hiking in Sarek Nat. Park. They had rain for a couple of days but had heard of some German tourists having a few days of snow.

This made me think of autumn in the mountains and how very unsure weather can be. For several years now, more and more tourists prefer to hike in Padjelanta and Sarek national parks and the weather has become easier through the years. Global warming is assumed the reason.

But, I know that autumn hikes are not to be taken lightly in the subarctic. It can be dangerous and I feel that more and more tourists don’t know how weather conditions can be. It may not be Everest, but snowstorms can ruthlessly happen anytime…even in Laponia.

Once, in July 1988, I was on my first solo hike through Sarek looking for signs of older Saami campsites. Coming out of the Sarves Valley (Sarvesvagge), I headed upwards and south through the Lulliha Pass (Lullihavagge). The weather was sunny when I started heading upwards and the pass was only some 1300 meters. But, halfway up the weather turned and it started to get very dark. It started to rain and the wind started whipping into me and it started to snow. As I reached the top of the pass, the snow was 4 inches thick, it was dangerously slippery and I was covered with wet snow that the wind had packed onto me and my pack.
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Lulliha Pass in Sarek in July

Well, it was only a short summer storm and, as I started my descent down to a lower and warmer altitude, the snow on me melted and the ground turned to sloppy. Well down in calm and safety, I got out of my totally wet clothing, put on my extras and continued on my journey. But, believe my surprise with snow in July!

Finally home in Jokkmokk, I heard of a group of young people who were stranded in the Kaskas Pass (Kaskasvagge), the pass east from where I had been a couple of days earlier. If I remember right, one person had twisted his foot and someone in the group went on to give the alarm for help at the nearest help telephone. The mountain safety helicopter took a few days in finding the distressed hikers and finally flew them out. The problem in the search was the bad weather conditions and this was the middle of summer.

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Geologist and friend Chris Cooper, Scotland, on Ruotevare (12 Km NW of Kvikkjokk) second week of Sept. 2006

So, some words of wisdom, weather decides everything you do in the mountains! A hiker must always adapt his trip to nature and her conditions! Nature is nothing to get sassy with. I can’t stress this more!

In September the regular helicopters stop flying, the mountain safety unit cannot fly in snowstorms and, with a quick accumulation of snow, and I mean it’s easy to get 6-10 inches overnight with temperatures down to –10 or -15 C, hiking is drastically impaired and it’s near impossible to find someone in distress. And, quickly the mountains turn to winter, hypothermia can set in and no one finds a body until next coming season.

Most people want to enjoy their Laponia stay, but never NEVER underestimate the weather. Please, don’t listen to half-experienced backpackers who have had luck with their late season trip and don’t believe this is always true when considering your first trip! And don’t always believe pictures in a tourist brochure!

Risk management, common sense and keep an eye to the skies. Stay safe out there!