…is a fact that inlanders hardly are aware of. Possibly, when visiting a coastline during vacation, through a television program or the isolated article in the local newspaper, people living away from salty shores may get a small insight of all the refuse and waste that exists in the oceans. It wasn’t until I started walking the shores along Shetland that the variety and amount of floating scrap became apparent, and I earlier wouldn’t or couldn’t conceive how the world is polluting the seas until coming to this tiny group of Atlantic islands.

And, the garbage is very real! While taking walks along a nearby part of Shetland’s shores, the beachcomber comes out in me. Eyes pointed downwards, I search the deposits of freshly washed up kelp for some special seashell, piece of wood, hunk of amber or rare maritime artifact but, after a short time, realize that a large percentage of beached debris is manmade polyethylene.

The garbage becomes more apparent as I glance higher up along the beach or shore, where many years of accumulated crap can be found. It’s mind-boggling with the ropes and netting material, plastic containers and water bottles that are pushed on shore or slowly disappearing into the sands. One distressing thought is the seals, dolphins or birds that can, and do, get tangled into this junk.

Occasionally, I can consider who’s to blame for this mess. It isn’t Shetland’s fault that somebody else’s garbage blows up on its shoreline! It’s hardly the fault of the people visiting the beaches, though in some cases the odd soda can or forgotten shoe can be had. And, can one really blame the ships or fishing vessels out to sea, when fighting heavy winds as their fishing nets are torn away or loose equipment wash overboard?

If I remember right, about three times more garbage is thrown into the seas than the amount of fish taken. And, there is so much debate about EU fishing quotas and so little said about keeping the ocean clean…? It just seems baffling. Where are the champions for keeping our oceans clean?
Photo:Meal Beach

In an attempt to suggest something positive, I want to highlight that Shetland sets aside time and money to clean-up its shores. Each year, residents are invited to participate in a road and shore clean-up and literally hundreds take time to handpick scrap off of the beaches etc. The council provides and allocates funds for pick-up and hauling of the collected garbage.

I think this is commendable! Both the council and especially the volunteers need to be patted on their backs for this great effort. Unfortunately, the crap keeps blowing in from the seas at a regular pace and almost defeats the purpose.

Think, if more and more of us would refuse using non-degradable polyethylene where possible? One idea that I try to practice, is to pick-up some beach scrap and carry it home for disposal each time I go for a walk. Think if everyone did this as they visit Shetland’s shoreline? Could be a great habit and good idea?

This, the soldier of strength,
This, the gatekeeper of Mousa Sound.
This, the sentinel of Shetland
Watching over its destiny… its past.
No lime, nor cement, nor earth, sand and water.
Dry stone built, with precision and intent.

Thirteen meters of ancient architecture…
The wind still whistles around its kiln-like tower
And the rains still cut into its moss covered shell
The sun still pushes on its back, its side, its front
And it still stands as it has…for 20 centuries

The shadows who gave it birth,
Who breathed life into it,
Stone after stone after stone
Worn, heavy with sweat and anticipation
Are nearby, yet, have journeyed onwards… elsewhere.

This tower, this broch of Mousa Isle
Solid, daring, watching, remembering
So many, many lives
Once warming, once sheltering…protecting
Now tolerant, patient, reliant
Inviting in its secrets
Forever, standing guard over its waters

…that probably could make a few world-renowned vacation spots green with jealousy. Shetland has sandy, pebble and boulder beaches that can be found along some 1500 km of coastline. All depending upon your choice, there are patches of different beach to be had for that special outing and a day’s relaxation.

Just this year, four Shetland beaches have been awarded the prestigious Blue Flag Award by Keep Scotland Beautiful, a charitable organization to improve and sustain the environment of Scotland through a variety of projects. Three beaches on Shetland, Sands of Breckon on Yell, Tresta on Fetlar and West Voe are new to the awards, but a recurring award winner is the tombola-style beach at St. Ninian’s Isle. The largest in Great Britain with a length of appxm. 500 meters.

Photo: The beach at St. Ninian’s Isle stretches eastwards towards mainland Shetland

When driving to the St. Ninian’s Isle parking lot, just below the village of Bigton on the western coastline of south mainland, the beach stretches itself out towards the island with ocean waters on both sides. A tombola is a small spit of land or beach connecting an island with its mainland. St. Ninian’s beach size became even more greater and impressive as one advances towards and starts walking on the beige-white sand.

St. Ninian’s Isle itself is an archaeological object of interest. By its name, the isle has a Christian tone to it, but evidence of Neolithic graves have been found underneath and within the walls of a 12th century chapel on the island. It was this same chapel that the so-called St. Ninian Treasure, a collection of silver broaches and ornaments from Viking times, was found under a stone slab during an archaeological investigation in 1958.

Photo: Remnants of 12th century chapel at St. Ninian's Isle, Shetland

Photo: St. Ninian’s Isle Beach stretches towards the island itself

Well worth a visit, don’t you think?

…is brutally renowned for forceful North Sea winds and walls of rain showers tearing into the tiny islands and its inhabitants. Ever since we arrived, locals have made shrugging comments with slight intonations of apologies for a lesser attractive climate.

But, this year has proven this rule to be temporarily wrong. As locals speak of the damp windy weather of Shetland, their eyes can light up and add “…but May was super”! Media has commented that this last July has been the warmest since 1904 and spreading rumor is pronouncing a Shetland summer better than can ever be remembered.

Yes, we’ve had wind and rain! And, no, the temperatures haven’t hit the high twenties in Shetland. But, we’ve had many memorable sunny walks and fantastic sunny mornings and have really enjoyed the privilege of two white sandy beaches near our house and a nearby Atlantic coastline.

Perhaps normality will return as we venture closer into the fall. Perhaps we’ll experience normal Shetland weather soon or blog about how wet the days are later. But, until then, allow me to show panoramic Shetland pictures from our afternoon walk today. Enjoy!

Photo 1: WHALE WICK, where we often pass on walks

Photo 2: Almost an image of Padjelanta…RUFF LOCH.

Photo 3: More than 20 miles west of Burra Isle and often lost in the mist, FOULA shows itself to the mainland.

PS- Sorry, Anna! You’re in our thoughts!

…and farmers are reaping in their efforts from the past growing season. We are into the middle of cutting and making hay and, when the dry wind is blowing together with the warm sun we’ve had these last two weeks, the weather has been friendly for this work. Our neighbours cut hay the old fashion way with a scythe (en lie), cutting small patches of field one at at time. Then, they let the grass stay on the ground to dry in the wind/sun, turning this over occasionally in the process. Sometimes, the hay can be piled onto pyramid-like frames to dry, covered with a fishnet to prevent the hay from blowing off.

Photo: Making hay while the sun shines on Shetland

And, harvest time on Shetland means arranging agriculture fairs. These give an opportunity for everyone to show what they have been working with, be judged for quality of agricultural produce and definitely enjoy a good time.

We went to the “Voe Show”, as it was called, and had an immensely fun day. Perhaps because of the great weather, but more definite because of everything to see and do at this fair. For myself, having roots with county fairs in Ohio, I really get a kick out of seeing all the animals and produce as well as I’m impressed by the hard work everyone does and the pride they show in every example shown. It brings the “farmer” out in me.

Let’s just show some simple pictures from Voe’s agricultural show and try to imagine how it was…

Photo1:A curious Shetland pony

Photo2:Shetland fleece judged for its quality

Photo3:Examples of Shetland shawl competition and superb handknitted quality

Photo4:A Shetland Blackface ram

Photo5:The egg competition was more than expected

Photo6:Live entertainment and great fun for everyone

PS- Next weekend- The Walls Agricultural Show!

…can often take form in local heritage centers and museums, which are easily found by visitors and openly advertised in Shetland brochures, tourist websites and local networking. Experiencing these places have often proved impressive, such as our earlier visit to Quendale Mill. Needless to say, our short discovery trip to the second largest Shetland island, Yell, and to Britain’s most northerly inhabited island, Unst.

Shetland Ferry Service-
Obviously, getting from the mainland to these islands require using the inter-island ferry system. The ferries are the responsibility of the Shetland Island Council (SIC), which maintain a fleet of some 12 ferries with services between all inhabited islands. More information can be had at Inter Island Ferry Service.

Photo: The ferry to Unst coming in to Gutcher Pier

As for the degree or quality of this service, I asked a vacationing employee on Yell about this. His reply was that the council’s intention was to provide the absolute best ferry service possible to Shetland citizens. At any time on any day, the ferries can be booked. With this I asked, What about 3 am on January 2, for example? His comment was, book a few days beforehand and the ferry will be ready to give service at this time on this day!

After having used the ferries to the northern islands, The Shetland Inter Ferry Service keeps time, has clean and well-maintained ferries and gives smooth boarding with pleasant service from staff.

Unst Heritage Center-
The Unst Heritage Center is an example of local community effort with exploring, maintaining and exhibiting local history, culture and identity. A small building in the village of Haroldswick, the Heritage Center exhibits the crofting culture of Unst as well as glimpses of historical matters and how people and services were the village and Unst.

The attendant, or host for the heritage center, was an exceptional resource of information. She readily supplied answers to visitor questions, but even provided more information or news to similar subjects. We learned of an easier way to see Muckle Flugga lighthouse, that there was to be sheep shearing later that evening and that there was to be a traditional music and slideshow event given at the Public Hall in Uyeasound. The little “extra effort” that most visitors appreciate.

Photo: An example of a traditional crofters house interior. Notice the details and the life-like “lady of the croft”.

The exhibition was very thorough in content and ranged from Unst geology to relics from an earlier post office and school environment. I personally was impressed with the details found with a life-like model of a crofthouse interior, where one could almost walk inside and shake the hand of the “lady of the croft” sitting next to her warming fire.

Later, we found a great B&B called Prestegaard in Uyeasound and attended the gathering at the Public Hall, where we listened to a superb group of teenagers playing traditional folk music and watched a slideshow. We were personally served with tea and cakes as a small boy went around and collected donations to a cancer fund project the community was supporting. All volunteer work!

In the morning, we visited the nearby Muness Castle of Unst. What would Scotland, or even Shetland, be without derelict castles. This exceptionally interesting attraction was open to visitors, free and very visitor friendly. Great fun for everyone with an imagination for history!

Burravoe’s “Old Haa”-
The next day, after the ferry ride back to Yell, we drove a side road past “The White Wife” and onwards stopping at “The Old Haa” in Burravoe. Again, like so many other places on Shetland, this was a local community effort and attraction and centered its exhibit on local whaling history and sailing as a compliment to crofting. Interestingly, Shetlanders would sail through the years to Greenland and Antarctica to search for whales in the 19th and early 20th centuries and the exhibition should tools and implements for this work together with whale, seal and otter displays.

Photo: Whaling tools, memorabilia etc. exhibited at “The Old Haa”, Burravoe

Again, as most Shetland heritage places, coffee could be bought and we took our cups outside to the back garden where we sat in the warm sun and let our eyes glance over a greatly appeasing array of flowers along the stone wall.

Photo: The back garden of “The Old Haa”, Burravoe

Reflections-
After having visited several heritage centers or museums, I have been immensely impressed by the details and degree of work that has been invested in these places. After asking, I found that some of the staff are employed on a seasonal basis but that most work is done voluntarily by citizens. The upkeep and maintenance, or even the actual start-up costs for the buildings, are subsidized by the Shetland Council, Shetland Amenity Trust etc. in some way or another. Economically, it seems apparent that Shetland prioritizes needs and wishes for its citizens and show support for local ventures and development. Could this be an example for other places in the world?

I want to congratulate and honor all the volunteers that are involved with and have developed these places. They do amazing work and which tourists and visitors really enjoy but, also, the local community has pleasure in and learns so much of the past with.

Extra- visual aids from Unst and Yell-
Photo: Wine cellar of Muness Castle

Photo: A xylophone boat to occupy one’s time while waiting for the ferry at Belmont, Unst

Photo: Shetland beach flowers

…from Shetland just to keep readers visually satisfied with our adventures.

Photo: Barley is a traditional grain that has been grown for thousands of years in Shetland
Photo:The Quendale Water Mill, one of many heritage projects sponsored by the Shetland Amenity Trust, is a restored working mill (kvarn) keeping crofting traditions alive

Photo: Inside Quendale Mill is a small museum related to milling flour and other trades

Photo: As in the Laponia mountains, butterwort (tätört) can be found in Shetland
Photo: Some of our closest neighbors may be planning a weekend Scrabble party

Photo: Eastern view outside our window this evening at 9:30 pm