…is something really different and Shetlanders can really get fired up about it. A thousand or more men loyally parade with lit torches through the streets of Lerwick, Shetland. In front of them is their appointed Jarl, a guiding light for his followers who all shout comradely cheers and sing songs of enthusiasm during this festival of fire. These rivers of men pull an effigy of a Viking ship to it final destruction by fire in the heart of the city. Up Helly Aa represents norsk tradition, fire and comradeship unlike anywhere else. Glowing…fervent…forceful and with proud intent.

Photo: The Jarl parades his men through the conquered streets of Lerwick, Shetland during Up Helly Aa.

Traditionally, there is some evidence of this Shetlandic celebration that points to the early rural 19th century. A rowdy celebration was noted in 1824, by a visiting missionary where he documented that midnight brought an uproar of drums, horns, banging of pots, discharging of guns, screams and some drinking and fighting to the town. At that time, this was around Christmas Eve, during the darkest part of the year.

The celebration grew bolder during the 1840’s. Groups of masked men had formed and they ran the small cobblestone streets of Lerwick dragging barrels or tubs of burning tar in their wake. Eventually, these groups became rivals and the tradition accumulated to an annoying degree. Many complaints were heard arguing the dangers and the mess that was left in town.

Then around the latter half of the 19th century, and up to WW I, changes came about with new ideas and more structure. Here the name Up Helly Aa, apparently having Norsk origins as does Shetland, came to be used and rival gangs became coherent, working together and forming a unified group of individual squads. “Guizing” came about and the squads of men introduced elaborate disguises; not so uncommon as dressed as woman. The fire festival was moved to the end of January, traditionally the last Tuesday of the month, and a Viking theme with the squads being lead by a common leader, the Jarl, was permanently sanctioned.

Photo: A firey fate awaits the Viking galley in the evening finale of Up Helly Aa celebrations.

And so it still is today. For Up Helly Aa, Shetland has a “national holiday” with schools closing and people getting free from work. Tuesday morning, the Jarl and his men parade through the streets of Lerwick, as if the town had been invaded by Vikings and the conquerors meet the conquered. During the day, the Jarl and squads pay visits to halls and organizations and, finishing off the day, a grand parade unlike one could imagine, weaves its fiery self around the streets to the final burning of a Viking galley to the awe of spectators and long distant visitors.

Photo: Torches from a thousand men seal the fate of the Viking galley at Up Helly Aa, Shetland

The rest of the night is one whopping all night party. The squads visit pubs and halls and enjoy a Viking evening until the next morning. Lerwick can then rest. The squads retreat for a well deserved rest but carrying thoughts, plans and new ideas for the next coming Up Helly Aa 2010. Same month, same day; probably a little better and impressive!

With Up Helly Aa, I was impressed with the rows and rows of torches, flowing along the darkened streets of Lerwick, and the well organized day/evening events that were brought about by truly dedicated volunteers who obviously had fun doing it all. I would highly recommend a visit at least once in a lifetime…perhaps, twice or more to really enjoy Up Helly Aa and Shetland.

If the spirits of early Vikings were gathered on the hills surrounding Lerwick and watched the evening procession, I would imagine they would nod to each other, wink an eye and smile with unanimous approval!

Photo: Up Helly Aa is a midwinter Festival of Fire on Shetland

In a recent blog, I explained how Jeppe the Jeep was re-registering to a U.K. vehicle; re-becoming a British road subject again. Refreshing memories, Jeppe was first registered into the British system and grew up in London. After tooling around this exciting city, and coming into Swedish ownership, Jeppe was an export/import item and became Swedish. Here, he handled the traffic of southern Sweden and tasted the Stockholm asphalt until his owner decided to let him go.

With our adventure plans, I purchased Jeppe and off we went to the excitement and challenges of new adventures, first in Lapland and later through Norway, the ferries and finally putting his paws on Shetland turf…uh…roads. But, foreign cars can only be kept foreign for 6 months within a 12 month period in the U.K. Jeepe was looking forward to “coming home” again! (Is there a Hamefarin for older Jeep Cherokee’s?)

“Now I’m Swedish…”

U.K. Vehicle Importation-
The process requires a dedicated amount of determination to shuffle through the bureaucracy and put up with U.K. paperwork. The government department that deals with importing a vehicle is the DVLA. They take care of all procedures and are similar to those expected from Sweden’s “Vägverket”.

The basic requirements are …basic. The vehicle must show British insurance coverage for at the least “Third Party, Fire & Theft”. Comparatively, this is a sort of “halvförsäkring”. Then, a vehicle must be U.K. MOT approved, which Jeepe became after a little touch-up welding on his body. A paper from the HM Customs & Revenues must be filled in for importing vehicles. If the car is older than 10 years, customs and taxes don’t have to be paid. Finally, there is a barrage of papers to be filled in. All of these papers, with the exception of insurance, MOT and customs, can be had in a package from a DVLA office.

After filling in every necessary detail, and most likely several hours of knocking your head on the kitchen table, the vehicle registration application can be sent in. Now comes the tricky parts.

“…and now I’m not!”

Costs -
If the vehicle is coming from the EC and was not earlier registered in the U.K., a registration fee of £55 must be paid, together with the yearly road tax. Road tax for Jeepe, being an older car and not engaged with the new CO2 emission rates, was £185 per year. This is paid via a postal check, which costs £10 to be made out. The whole letter must be sent through registered mail, of which it takes two special registered mail envelopes costing 2 x £5 = £10. Earlier, you shelled out £53 for the MOT and, if there was complications and the vehicle had to be re-checked within the 10 working day limitation, it could be another £20 or so more.

Why 2 registered envelopes?
The DVLA requires ALL papers including ALL documents concerning the vehicle to be sent in original condition. No copies are allowed! Just originals! Together with the postal check (for those with a calculator on your desktop, you can add up the costs) you must supply DVLA with identification proving you are who you profess to be. If you don’t happen to have a U.K. paper driver’s license or similar ID, you submit your passport…in original, together with a bank statement or utility bill as proof of address.

That’s why the two registered envelopes. The whole application with papers and ID must be with registered mail, and the return of such, to safeguard not getting lost along the way. Remember…the passport…in original!

The process is fairly quick, I must say. Including mail transport, it was only 4 working days until I received the official papers. In these, is the approval of registration letter, the paid road tax decal, for the inside of the front windscreen, and an official document stating what the car’s plate number is. Actual license plates can be bought over the counter at any approved garage or parts store (£22) with the correct document and ID.

Photo: British registration numbers, or license plates, can be bought over the counter at approved stores. Here- J&B Autoparts, Lerwick

Photo: Freshly made U.K. license plates

Back to Jeppe -
Jeppe is a very happy Jeep, now! Not only did his carer do a good job with the paperwork but, since he was a British road subject before, he got his old plate number back! Isn’t that cool? Well, Jeppe thought so!

So, if you want to import a used motor vehicle from the EC to the U.K., this blog may give some pointers and good advice. At least, Jeppe hopes so. Jeppe has come home and is a happy Jeep…even if he’s limited!

Welcome back Jeppe!

“Lawdy, Lawdy…I’s lookin’ gooood!”

…season! According to my personal observations, this is the more common way of, for we who come from another English speaking culture, saying Merry Christmas on Shetland. Naturally, there are small signs that can be observed with the salutation, Merry Christmas, but the majority of written greetings use the word “festive” in it.

If I would open up the Shetland Times and glance over the advertisements from businesses, shops and council departments that announce Christmas closings and hours, I find the occasional “Merry Christmas and Happy New Years” embedded in the ads. Perhaps a British language tradition, but I feel this is slightly suspicious and originates from a dominating American influence. (Americans do have trouble feeling comfortable with other languages than their own, or…?) Ah…well!

But I became thrilled with seeing “Happy Christmas and a Prosperous New Year” sticking up among the advertisers. Christmas seems to mean festivities, or a fun and joyous occasion, and these words can be seen most everywhere. In newspapers, in stores, on signs…a shade more dominating than “merry” and I’ll admit, I sort of like that word. It’s wishing an actively joyous period or season, but is neutral and fits most everybody’s feelings.

Then, being from the “independent colonies of the British Empire” myself, “Merry” this and “Merry” that is a little worn to my ears and eyes. I enjoy seeing or hearing something different like “happy” and “festive”. A word that would be connected with, in this case “season”, naturally would be Holidays; like “Happy Holidays”, but to my way of thinking, this “holiday” is too connected with British vacations; “going on holiday”. And, thought I’m sure some Brits are off on “holiday” to New Zealand, Thailand or Spain, the “festive season” of the year sounds better to me.

But, however it is written or said, the hearts of those who use Christmas greetings are still one and the same. So, let me use my heart and wish everyone a Very Merry Festive Season Christmas and a Happy Prosperous New Year…from Shetland!

Photo: A storefront window in Lerwick during the festive season

Photo: While Christmas shopping was going on, Victoria Pier guests gave their own festive season of lights

…since we’ve been without broadband for several weeks. This problem was self-inflicted and not due to any weather conditions.

Shetland Wool-
Over the last several years, quality control has become an expected and commonplace routine for producers. Shetland wool goes through a rigid quality control in its own special way when, each year with local agriculture shows, inspections and grading of wool are carried out and the results exhibited for the public. But, afterwards, when the wool is going to be used to produce sweaters or the intricate Shetland shawls, how do these things get the seal of approval?

The best way found over the years is to have the knitters themselves gather together and judge knitted products. Each year, a solemn meeting is held in Shetland where knitters, through an organization called The Shetland Knitters, Spinners, Weavers and Dyers Guild, meet and take out their enlarging glasses to do a thorough inspection of sweaters, shawls and other hand-knitted products to judge if these are to the standards and expectations set up from hundreds of years of knitting.

So it was again this year. After each participating example is put under the enlarging glass and critically scrutinized by the guild, the public is then allowed to see for themselves the superb and awesome quality of knitted Shetland handcraft. This system of self-examination seems to strengthen knitting handcraft for generations to come.

Eco-Wool Producers-
When confronted with a choice of “organic” or “non-organic” food and products, it is often a puzzle and search between an array of different symbols and markings describing different degrees of environmentally sound/unsound products. But, one thing that can be easy to identify with Shetland products is the almost total organic lifestyle Shetland has.

The last five months have shown that sheep, a base product of Shetland where for every Shetlander there are 13 sheep, peacefully roam the grassy crofts at will and eat grass that more or less is never plowed, seeded nor fertilized. So, the lambs that are sold or the wool fleece that one buys are free of any additives that would be expected for…hmmm…other parts of the European Union. You can probably trust that any Shetland home grown product is “chemical free” and you purchase a superb quality that would make…hmmm…Bryssels jealous.

Photo:Shetland Organic Producers’ Group exhibition at wool and knitting awards

One particular group that is representative for organically grown Shetland wool is Shetland Organic Producers’ Group and who have an official EU stamp of approval for their products and methods of production. This is great and I can highly recommend them. If you’re not “sheepish”, contact ‘em and they probably can ship genuine organic Shetland wool or yarn to ya. If you’re a great knitter, why settle with something less than Shetland wool?

Personally, I cannot understand why Sweden, or any other Nordic country, would want to import other lamb meat than Shetland lamb; closer with shipping and organically raised. So, allow me to coin a new marketing phrase… Shetland croft products are organic…by nature! (Gotta get me a bumper sticker with this.)

Halloween in Shetland-
Yes, All Saints Day came to Shetland. We loved it! The pumpkins were carved, sweets were in supply and small ghosts, goblins and other strange creatures or princesses came to our (former) place of domicile. There were no special times to do “Trick or Treating”. The night was beautifully…Halloweenish. It was “horridly” great fun. Judge yourself by these photos…

Photo: The Great Pumpkin of Shetland

Photo: Really scary visitors!

…and, a few more from Shetland…
Photo 1: Lerwick “Skyline” Pan

Photo 2: Lerwick Downtown- Market Cross Pan with snow

Photo 3:Lerwick looking east with Clickimin Leisure Center to right

Photo 4: A wintery Scalloway, Shetland

Photo 5: Northlink Ferries and Holmsgarth Ferry Terminal- Lerwick, Shetland

…a Scandinavian touch?

…again! Everyone talks about it, but no one does anything about it. These last two weeks have been windy with gale to strong gale force winds and with a climax of “hurricane” winds. I could say, “Finally. Some decent Shetland weather.”

Photo: A tired little harbor seal resting from stormy seas

Surprisingly similar to mountain storms, there are some affects that are different. Several weeks ago, while on a very windy walk, we found a harbour seal lying on Bannaminn Beach. It was alive, but taken, and our first thoughts were that it was hurt; perhaps dying. We spoke with a local resident and, with the question of what should be done, he just said to leave it alone. We took the advice and continued.

The next morning, we went back to the beach expecting to find a seal cadaver near the water’s edge. We didn’t find it and supposed it was washed backed out to sea. But, we met the man and he explained that the seal took itself back out in the water soon after we had left it. It probably was just up on the beach to rest from the frothy windswept waters.

Since then, we’ve noticed the odd seal bobbing in high waves near beaches when it was very windy and the sea smashed against the shores. This last weekend was not exception. As we took walks, we saw the occasional seal in the surf. Just amazing how seals have adapted so well to bad weather and high waves and almost seem to have fun with this.

Photo: Playing tag with the waves at St. Ninians Beach

But, Shetland had heavy winds this last weekend. Seals or no seals, the waves were impressing and winds blew a body around as they pleased. These last few days, Shetland’s harbors have been full of safety seeking ships and boats sitting patiently for the winds to blow over and to return to their work. The winds created problems with a short power outage and boats have needed assistance. Vehicles had difficulties with staying on the roads. (see- Shetland News)

The wind has now died down to a normalcy. The weather is recruiting new surprises and it is expected to snow tonight. Ah…a new Shetland experience! (see- Shetland Weather Forecast)

Photo 1: Eshaness shoreline on Tuesday, as winds become angrier.

Photo 2: A Shetland pony asking us how we’re doing with the winds.

Photo 3: Ships finding shelter in the harbor at Symbister, Whalsay

…that gives a long lasting impression to the islands is found at Quendale. On the southern mainland coastline, and not at all far from Sumburgh Airport, this gem of sandy beach stretches over an English mile (1.6 km) across the Bay of Quendale and is easliy accessed, not by the footpaths from A 970 nor the village of Hestingott, but via a short distance south of the quaint Quendale Mill Musuem.

Photo: The Quendale Beach stretches a mile along the bay

Historically, Quendale Beach wasn’t always as it looks like today. Over two hundred years ago, there is documentation of a sandy Sahara-like landscape that progressively fingered itself more and more inland each year. Due to the southerly Shetland winds, the sand covered good pasture land, making this area useless. There are accounts of how this “desert” was ruining the Quendale Kirk and its nearby graveyard. But, more about this later.

Apparently, the lairds at the time realized that, if nothing was to be done about the problem, they would have less and less land for pasture for their sheep. Greedily, they had grass planted and tended to for years in a successful attempt with stopping the sand from going further and saving precious pasturage for themselves.

Photo: Before planting grass, Quendale Beach stretched inland giving an impression of a desert

Today, the area behind Quendale Beach still show the scars of sand dunes, now covered with grass, and gives a small reflection to how the area may have been like years ago. The beach is delightful and this, as well as the Quendale Mill Museum, is a recommended place to visit when in Shetland.

Photo: Quendale Beach