…happened to be standing behind me in the line at the grocery store today. Having heard their British English, I turned around and had a small chat. It was the first time to Jokkmokk for them and they had been hiking in Sarek Nat. Park. They had rain for a couple of days but had heard of some German tourists having a few days of snow.
This made me think of autumn in the mountains and how very unsure weather can be. For several years now, more and more tourists prefer to hike in Padjelanta and Sarek national parks and the weather has become easier through the years. Global warming is assumed the reason.
But, I know that autumn hikes are not to be taken lightly in the subarctic. It can be dangerous and I feel that more and more tourists don’t know how weather conditions can be. It may not be Everest, but snowstorms can ruthlessly happen anytime…even in Laponia.
Once, in July 1988, I was on my first solo hike through Sarek looking for signs of older Saami campsites. Coming out of the Sarves Valley (Sarvesvagge), I headed upwards and south through the Lulliha Pass (Lullihavagge). The weather was sunny when I started heading upwards and the pass was only some 1300 meters. But, halfway up the weather turned and it started to get very dark. It started to rain and the wind started whipping into me and it started to snow. As I reached the top of the pass, the snow was 4 inches thick, it was dangerously slippery and I was covered with wet snow that the wind had packed onto me and my pack.
Lulliha Pass in Sarek in July
Well, it was only a short summer storm and, as I started my descent down to a lower and warmer altitude, the snow on me melted and the ground turned to sloppy. Well down in calm and safety, I got out of my totally wet clothing, put on my extras and continued on my journey. But, believe my surprise with snow in July!
Finally home in Jokkmokk, I heard of a group of young people who were stranded in the Kaskas Pass (Kaskasvagge), the pass east from where I had been a couple of days earlier. If I remember right, one person had twisted his foot and someone in the group went on to give the alarm for help at the nearest help telephone. The mountain safety helicopter took a few days in finding the distressed hikers and finally flew them out. The problem in the search was the bad weather conditions and this was the middle of summer.
Geologist and friend Chris Cooper, Scotland, on Ruotevare (12 Km NW of Kvikkjokk) second week of Sept. 2006
So, some words of wisdom, weather decides everything you do in the mountains! A hiker must always adapt his trip to nature and her conditions! Nature is nothing to get sassy with. I can’t stress this more!
In September the regular helicopters stop flying, the mountain safety unit cannot fly in snowstorms and, with a quick accumulation of snow, and I mean it’s easy to get 6-10 inches overnight with temperatures down to –10 or -15 C, hiking is drastically impaired and it’s near impossible to find someone in distress. And, quickly the mountains turn to winter, hypothermia can set in and no one finds a body until next coming season.
Most people want to enjoy their Laponia stay, but never NEVER underestimate the weather. Please, don’t listen to half-experienced backpackers who have had luck with their late season trip and don’t believe this is always true when considering your first trip! And don’t always believe pictures in a tourist brochure!
Risk management, common sense and keep an eye to the skies. Stay safe out there!
Where did I put those chocolate biscuits?
Biscuits? Ah, Chris, I thought you were looking for your mosquito repellent!